There are a few options for ordering a mask (style and pattern). Email me (MelanieHayn@gmail.com) with the information below.

If you want to choose from ones I already have made up, check this link. Email me the size/color combo(s).

1) Which Style do you want?

ALL styles have a pocket at the top for a nose wire, which is removable for washing or replacement, and are 2-layer with a quilting cotton or batik front, and cotton back.

Style 1: Traditional Ear-Elastic

This mask is easy to take on and off, and the elastic is sewn in, so should hold up to long-term wear. It requires sizing, so please measure your face and include these numbers:

Measurement: from the little cartilage nub in the ear, across the tip of the nose, to the other side (no need to form against the cheeks or squish your nose).

Style 2: Adjustable – tie to length

This mask has round elastic which you’ll tie yourself to any length you want, to optimize fit without needing to measure. It has more flexibility, but you’ll have a knot to contend with and it requires some fiddling at first until you get the elastic tied to the correct length.

Style 3: Adjustable – lanyard style

This mask loops around your ears, then the strap tightens behind your head with a plastic toggle. It can be thrown in the wash, but I advise a lingerie bag, since the strap can easily tangle in the agitator or other clothing.

2) What fabric do you want on the front?

If you want to choose from ones I already have made up, check this link. Email me the size/color combo(s).

Otherwise, suggest a few favorite fabrics from My Fabric List (I suggest sending a few, just in case one is gone)

Fabrics for mask fronts

This is the outside of the mask that the world sees. Most are standard cotton. If they are different, I’ve noted it next to the fabric name.

The inside will be either cotton jersey or a breathable cotton. Let me know if you have a preference.

01 – White and silver music

02 – black music

03 – patriotic music (glittery)

04 – sharks

05 – Gramma’s red check

06 – brown swirls

08 – blue and tan plaid (thin)

09 – brown plaid (thin)

15 – garden

18 – whales

19 – brown with dots

20 – green and yellow

21 – Plant cell batik

22 – Turtle batik

23 – light blue batik

24 – teal with texture

26 – blue and green strokes

27 – royal blue coral batik

28 – teal coral batik

60 – blue bubbles

29 – purple and blue bubble batik

30 – green and blue bubble batik

31 – cream coral batik

32 – pink weave (thin)

33 – mint colored solid

34 – black

35 – light blue

37 – teal tie dye

38 – gray and tan dots

39 – striped seagulls and sayings

40 – orange tie dye

41 – swirls

42 – green abstract

43 – leaves

44 – Olaf

45 – solid medium blue

46 – stripes (not 100% cotton)

47 – Grey Sateen (thicker)

48 – Tan (thicker)

49 – Tan (thinner) – ran out of woven, now solid tan

50- bandana fabric (thinner)

51 – lighthouses (upholstery fabric, still breathable)

52 – science girls (very little left)

53 – purple flowers batik

54 – light purple plants batik

55 – Fish batik

56 – navy bubble batik

57 – cream swirl batik

58 – mushrooms

59 – solid pink

61 – green topo batik

62 – solid orange

63 – light purple woven (lighter)

64 – blue and green dots

65 – floral

71 – White Polka Dots

72 – Red Spots

73 – Green triangle leaves

74 – Blue Squares

75 – Green Scribbles

76 – Green fronds

77 – Brown Circles

78- Brown Emblems

79 – Mermaids

80 – Ducks

81 – Polka Red

82 – Stripe Green

83 – Polka Gray

84 – Checks Gray

85 – Stars Gray

86 – Stars Teal

87 – Flowers Teal

Crafting, pandemic edition.

I’ve been making masks over the past few months, and wanted to put my method up with a few pictures in case it’s helpful for anyone. Here’s what they look like finished. They loop around the ears like medical masks, and have a removable nose wire.   Thanks to everyone who sent me pictures!  From them, I can tell that my face is smaller than average, so I’m making the masks bigger now 🙂

1 – Cut 9×7.5″ square of two fabrics, one for the front, one for the back. I use 100% cotton quilting fabric for the front, and prefer a t-shirt material/jersey/flannel for the back, since it’s softer against my face. Put them right sides together.

2 – In the seam allowance on the back of the stiffer layer, mark where you want to attach the elastic. I go up a bit from the bottom, and down from the top far enough that it will be just below the fold for the wire pocket.

3 – cut elastic to desired lengths. This will depend on which elastic you’re using, but 7″ per side works for a medium-size mask with what I’ve been using (loose on me but still functional, the right size for most folks I’ve talked to).

4 – Sew around the edges, leaving a gap at the bottom for turning, and insert the elastics as you go, with the loop on the inside. I leave a presser-foot-width seam allowance. If using jersey, I find it much easier to sew with the cotton side on top, since the jersey stretches a bit.

I use long needlenose pliers to make it easier to position the elastic where I want it. The elastic is shorter than the distance between the attachment points, so I found it easier to position as I go rather than trying to pin ahead of time.  If using round elastic, sew over it a few times to ensure it’s secure.

5 – Clip the corners, then flip right-side-out.  Push out the corners so they’re crisp.

6 – Iron the seams (be careful of the elastic if it isn’t heat resistant – I’ve melted several!). Fold the top seam over about 1/4-1/3″ onto the back and iron well. Then sew it down as close to the bottom edge as possible to leave a pocket to slide the nose wire into.

7 – Iron 3 pleats into the mask. I iron in half, then the top in quarters. I iron the bottom at slightly less than a quarter. Then use these as guidelines for pinning. With the pleats, I aim for 3-4″ height.

8 – Top stitch around the remaining 3 sides, making sure to leave the ends of the top pocket open, and making sure the gap in the bottom seam is fully closed.

9 – Wash (I use cool water with unscented detergent, then dry in the dryer on medium heat). Then I re-iron the pleats because I don’t like wrinkles.

The Renaissance Fair on 12/1 was a great event; with music, food, and great local crafts. I had a great time: Saw so many friends, did some holiday shopping, and met a lot of new, interesting people.

I put together gift baskets using Beautycounter products for the fair, and have some remaining.  If you’re not done with your holiday shopping yet and see something that interests you, let me know! I’m happy to ship them as well if you’re not local.

Beautycounter is all about safer, high-performing ingredients, in products produced sustainably and responsibly. Let me know if you’re interested in more information!

I guess I should also post the reason I was away for so long. I finally finished editing my thesis, and now am a master of science!  (Where’s my cape?)

From a crafty perspective, it gave me an excuse to buy more coils for my binding machine; I felt like a kid in a candy store, picking out the colors 😀

So now that I had bindings (and quality paper for the covers plus clear oversheets), I could make a multitude of budget copies (since the hard bound ones were pricey!).

And now I have lots of colors, to color code the music booklets that eventually I will get motivated to assemble.